Even though threatened by clouds of volcanic ash, freak mini Tsunamis and air strikes, the Cannes Film Festival is with us again. Universally acknowledged as the world’s most prestigious festival, it is simultaneously sophisticated and gauche. Cannes veteran Chris Sullivan gives you his top tips on what to wear, where to eat and where to see and been seen at this most glamorous of bun fights.
The Devil Wears Prada
Cannes basically consists of walking up and down the famed 3km long Croisette in the boiling heat, whether to check what’s going on at the Palais Des Festivals in the west, where the premieres and major screening are held, or schlepping in the opposite to the Ritz Carlton for serious rubber necking, a comfortable pair of shoes are a must.
Naked Lunch
Even lunching at a beachfront café will cost you two arms and two legs. Best to pick up a quite incredible quiche (2 euros) from a local patisserie, and walk down the front past the Palais on the right and pick up a beer or a glass of wine for (3 euros) from one of the outdoor kiosks, take a seat and watch the world go by. At night if you fancy a beer, turn away from the seafront and head into the town…
Babette's Feast
If you are going to treat yourself, go for the best and order bouillabaisse at the likes of Au Mal Assis in Cannes, Tetou in Golfe-Juan Vallauris, the marvellous Restaurant de Bacon on the other side of the Cap d'Antibes. A gastronomic experience the likes of which you won’t get anywhere else in the world. it might only be soup, fish, croutons, rouille and potatoes but, by all the saints, it is astounding.
Eyes Wide Shut
If you do get into one of the many exclusive parties (there are many fine industry events on the beach that are easier to access than the premieres) keep cool, avoid stargazing and enjoy the experience. Having said that, parties in clubs and hotels attract an uncommonly glamorous crowd you will never see elsewhere, and you’d be surprised who turns up.
Cinema Paradiso
Apparently they show films here too. Entry to screenings is strictly controlled and public admittance is virtually impossible. Some tickets are available for Directors' Fortnight and The International Critics' Week but the best option is to go to a screening in the town itself. At the Star, The Olympia or the Arcades 3 you can often (but not always) slip in unmolested even without accreditation. And then there are always the free public screenings available on the beach at the Cinema de la Plage. This year, for the first time, they’re featuring premieres instead of classic titles.
Me And Orson Welles
If you want to see A-listers in the flesh, the best place to set up camp is outside the Palais Des Festivals and wait but, beware, there are some serious professionals here who reserve their positions there from about lunchtime until the prime premieres in the evening. So you can try and grab a spot on the road behind the barriers right in front of the Palais steps but my tip is to just hang out in the bars, restaurants and clubs. Last year everyone was trying to catch sight of the gorgeous Monica Bellucci, and there I saw her hanging out in the corner of a local bar (La Villa).
The Great Escape
If all gets too much, then walk to the very end of the Croisette, cut behind Palm Beach and the peninsular and carry on until you find a bucolic Provençal beach full of locals. It's like a step back in time where old men wearing berets play Pétanque, the wine is cheap (and still delicious) and the hustle and bustle of the festival seems a million miles away.
Watch highlights from the opening day at Cannes Film Festival.
Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
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